Great Arab Revolt Centennial

It was suppose to be my last day in Jordan.  However, due to the Great Arab Revolt centennial celebration, I almost ended up getting stuck again in Amman. 

Many people were celebrating and making their way to a party.  Consequently, the roads were choc-o-bloc with vehicles and my already booked taxi arrived late (to pick me up).  Fortunately, the driver said he knew a short-cut to the airport.

At the airport, (at least one minute before check-in officially closes), the Qatar airline counter staff member informed me that check-in was closed.  Internally, I had already resigned to the eventuality that I might remain in Jordan indefinitely.  However, I explained what had happened and, to my relief, she checked me in.

Had I missed my flight, what would I have done that day?  Celebrate with the locals?  Probably not.  I would have booked the next flight back to the UK or made my way to Cairo to complete my learning.

Some admirers of the Ottoman empire believe that it was primarily defeated by the Saudis (in collaboration by the Wahabis) in collusion with the British empire.  However, this is far from the truth.  Unfortunately, certain Middle Eastern political movements/parties further compound the myth through their publications.

For instance, as will be explained below, the book How the Khilafah was Destroyed, by Abdul Qadeem Zallum (endorsed by Hizb ut-Tahrir) contains a number of misunderstandings.  

Let us begin with ibn Abd al-Wahhab, his supporters would say that in the 18th century (backed by the Saudis) he established law and order in the Najd area (not part of the Ottoman state) and secured the pilgrim routes to Mecca and Medina, and in his letters made it clear that it is wrong to rebel against the rulers (unless they call to sin).

According to M. S. al-Munajjid, ibn Abd al-Wahhaab said to the people of al-Qaseem: “I believe that it is obligatory to hear and obey the leaders of the Muslims, whether they are righteous or immoral, so long as they do not enjoin disobedience towards Allaah. Whoever has become Caliph and the people have given him their support and accepted him, even if he has gained the position of caliph by force, is to be obeyed and it is haraam to rebel against him.” (Majmoo’at Mu’allafaat al-Shaykh, 5/11).

Actually, Kuwait was not under Ottoman rule in 1788.  In the 20th century, the Saudis (with their Bedouin army – Ikhwan) established their current kingdom, but they played a minor role in World War One (possibly a single skirmish with an Ottoman garrison, then war with Kuwait).

They were more concerned with local conflicts (e.g. Rashid dynasty). As far as I know, the Saudis never reached Amman, let alone Damascus. At the southern border of Jordan, they were bombed by the British Royal Air Force.

As for Abdul-Aziz ibn Muhammad, while it is clear that ibn Saud was not an ally of the Ottomans and might of had negotiations with the British, it has never been proven that he was an agent of the British empire.

The Sharifian Army of Mecca, who were the leaders of the Arab Revolt (1916), were bribed with gold and supplied with explosives (by the British empire). Their aim was a United Arab Kingdom, perhaps with Damascus as its capitol.  Faisal (or his army) made it to Damascus.

Later, Faisal was made king of Iraq (by the British).  His brother Abdullah was made king of Transjordan.  Apparently, their father, in the Hijaz, al-Sharif Hussein bin Ali proclaimed himself caliph in 1924.  Soon after, the Hejazi Army (after defeating the Ottomans in Mecca and Medina) lost the Hijaz to the Saudis.

Today, the remaining Sharifian royal family rule the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan.   One need only visit the Martyrs museum in Amman or the World War One memorial in Salt, to understand that the Arab Revolt was led by Sharifian forces (initially near the Suez Canal, supported by British forces) and not by Saudi Bedouins in Najd.

Sources:
A History of the Modern Middle East, William L. Cleveland
Saudi Arabia: a case study in development, Fouad al-Fars
The Road to Mecca, Muhammad Asad
A History of Jordan, Philip Robins
A history of Iraq, Charles R. H. Tripp
https://islamqa.info/en/answers/9243/did-shaykh-muhammad-ibn-abd-al-wahhaab-rebel-against-the-ottoman-caliphate-and-what-was-the-reason-for-its-fall
https://www.britannica.com/place/Kuwait/History
https://cdn.britannica.com/89/4789-050-B6176F52/Expansion-Ottoman-Empire.jpg
https://cdn.britannica.com/40/131540-050-EFC5F6A7/Map-Arabia-insets-edition-Palestine-Jerusalem-Encyclopaedia-1902.jpg
http://www.kinghussein.gov.jo/his_arabrevolt.html
https://cdn.britannica.com/49/183749-050-8A2CE93D/World-Data-Locator-Map-Saudi-Arabia.jpg
https://cdn.britannica.com/95/5795-050-F7E34466/Saudi-Arabia-map-features-locator.jpg

Alexandria Centre for Languages

After visiting Pharos university I came across the Alexandria Centre for Languages (ACL) where finally I found out what happened to the SOAS students (School of Oriental & African Studies, University of London).  Apparently, since 2014 or earlier, for their year abroad, they had a choice between ACL, an-Najah university in Palestine and Qasid in Jordan.

The SOAS students appeared to be a lively bunch and on the first day spoke to me in Arabic, which naturally inclined me towards them.  I worked out a deal with the director, Magda Abou Youssef, that I could try out the course for one week, which I paid for, and then decide whether to join the SOAS programme or not.  I also took the placement test.

Continue reading “Alexandria Centre for Languages”

TAFL Center, Alexandria University

The last time I was here, one of the teachers insulted me in class.

In early January, while searching for a suitable center for teaching Arabic as a foreign language, I ended up returning to the TAFL Center (within the Faculty of Arts, Alexandria University).  The last time I was there, one of the teachers had a problem and insulted me in the class.  Thought it best to clear the issue before enrolling.  Now I felt forced.

Continue reading “TAFL Center, Alexandria University”

Out of the wok and into the fire

This is about the ‘prison’ in Sidi Bishr.

It was near a square (Mohummed Nageeb) facing the corniche.  Potentially, it is a good area, except that the official refuse collection does not keep up with the amount of rubbish that accumulates.

I was sharing an apartment with my new Chinese friend who told me it was a clean, beautiful, fully furnished and working apartment.  The main attraction of this flatmate was that he use to speak to me in Arabic, seemed passionate about his studies and tried to enjoy himself in Egypt (back in 2014).  Sadly, this was no longer the case.

Continue reading “Out of the wok and into the fire”

كيف ضیعت وقتي ببعض مراكز تعليم اللغة العربية للأجانب في مدينة الإسكندرية

سأَصِفُ خبرتي الجيدة و السيئة في مدينة الإسكندرية, مغامرتي تبدأ من كانون الثاني 2014 حتى آيار 2016.

في نهاية عام 2013 بَعْدَ أن أنهيتُ عقدي للعمل في مدينة لندن، كان لدي شهر قبل التسجيل في جامعة الاسكندرية, لذلك قررت أن أدرس ببضعة أسابيع في مركز عربي (أمام المتحف اليوناني الروماني).

ففي عام 2014 دَرَسْتُ العامية المصرية قليلاً (مدة أصبوع تقريباً)، ولكن المعلمة كانت تشعر بملل قليلًا (و أنا أيضاً), ربما ليس خطأها بسبب ما كان عندها تدريب، و تبْعاً الخطأ من المركز. أعتقد أنّ المديرة وجدتْها بين أصدقائها. أيضاً التركيز في هذا المركز كان العربية الحديثة والكلاسيكية.

على رغم من ذلك أكبر مشكلتي في هذا المركز هي أنهم فعلوا خطأ في تواريخ شهادتي، وعندما ذكرتُ ذلك بدأتْ الإدارة تجادل مع بعضها البعض، وفي نهاية كانوا مضايقين علي و رفضوا إجراء أي تغييرات لشهادتي.

كيف أرجع الى هذا مركز في المستقبل؟ و لهذا السبب بحثتُ عن مركز آخر.

قبل سفري الى مصر اتصلتُ بمركز تافل و قال لي سكرتير المركز أنّ رسوم الدراسة هي 1700$ فصلياً (الفصحى و العامية), فسافَرْتُ الى الاسكندرية و قابلتُ السكرتير و سجلتُ في المركز و دفعتُ الرسوم لدورتين (الفصحى و العامية).

وَجَدْتُ أنّ المعلمين مؤهلين و استفدتُ منهم في بداية الفصل ولكن في نهاية الفصل كانت توجد مشكلات كبيرة بالنسبة الى الدراسة و السكن, وبالاضافة الى ذلك مَرِضْتُ بسبب السكن و تَرَكْتُ الاسكندرية و ما رجعتُ اليها حتى قبل كانون الثاني 2016.

بالنسبة الى السكن كنتُ أسكن في فندق اسمه سي ستار (يعني نجم بحر) و لم يكن مريحاً جداً ولكن كانوا الموظفين لطفاء والمكان نظيف, قالت المديرة (الدكتورة لان حبيب) يمكنني أسكن في مدينة جامعية في سموحة ولكن لم أُردْ في ذلك الوقت (لحقاً وجدتُ أنّ هذا المكان ليس نظيفاً), أيضاً أحْبَرَتْني عن شقة في منطقة ابرهيمية, قالت لي أنّ هذه الشقة جميلة و رخيصة و في منطقة جيدة, ثمّ أعطتْني رقم هاتف الدكتورة نفين (زميلتها في قسم اللآثار كلية الآداب).

عندما اتصلتُ بها قالت نفين لي أنها صديقة الدكتورة لان حبيب و زميلة صاحب الشقة (و صديقة زوجته) و ستكون (الشقة) جاهزةً بعد أسبوعين, ولكن بعد أسبوعين زرتُ صاحب الشقة فيها (كانوا موجودين عماد خليل و زوجته غادة خليل كمال و وَلَدهُما و كانوا يعشين فيها) ولكن الشقة لم تكن جاهزةً, قالا يحتاجون الى أسبوع اضافي.

بعد أسبوع ذهبتُ اليهم و وجدتُ نفس القصة, قالت أسرة عماد خليل تحتاج الى أسبوعين اضافيين, طبعاً كنت مدهشاً بكلامهم و أيضاً التكييف لم يعملْ و أشياء أخرى لم تكن جاهزة, فأخْبَرْتُ بالدكتورة نفين و في النهاية قالتْ لي (تَكَلّمَتْ مع أسرة عماد خليل) أنّ الشقة و كل شيء فيها جاهزة بعد أسبوع اضافي.

بعد الأسبوع قالت الدكتورة نفين أنّ الشقة جاهزة حتى التكييف و يمكنني أنتقل الى الشقة, فذهبتُ الى الشقة بعد أسبوع و قالت أسرة عماد خليل أنّ الشقة نظيفة و مرتبة و كل شيء جاهز الا التكييف, فوقعتُ العقد و دفعتُ الفلوس.

بعد ثلاثة أيام وَجَدْتُ مشكلة كبيرة, أَخَدَتْ أسرة عماد خليل قططهم ولكن تَرَكَتْ براغيثها, كانت توجد مئات و كانت تشرب دمي!

Continue reading “كيف ضیعت وقتي ببعض مراكز تعليم اللغة العربية للأجانب في مدينة الإسكندرية”

You get what you pay for (sometimes)

A Jordanian (with Palestinian background, who had grown-up in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia) suggested to me that I could study Arabic in Saudi Arabia (KSA) – for free!

However, I had already met a Korean, who had moved from KSA, who was then studying at the Arab Community College (ACC) in Amman.  On a hill opposite the hospital – a boring place, which is as effective as the Language Centre of Jordan University except that you get what you pay for (whereas at UJLC you pay way more for what you gain – if anything).

As usual, the smart students are the ones who had already studied elsewhere or who already knew some colloquial Arabic.  The rest of the students simply stagnate and end-up repeating levels (so no real cost-saving here).  I also knew a few Chinese students who had already studied at the UJLC, but they still could not (or would not) speak Arabic so no benefit on that front either.

As for the Korean, he started off as intermediate and came alone (like myself) and was forced to communicate (in Arabic) with those who knew no English.  Most of the students at ACC were from the country-side in South-Eastern Europe, southern Russia and the ex-Soviet states, and (unfortunately for them, but fortunately for me) did not learn English effectively while they were at school (unlike in UJLC where most of the students already knew basic English and would rather practice improving this with those of us who were from England).

When asked why he had left Saudi, the Korean described KSA as a harsh place.  In fact, as well as learning Arabic, he was also interested in getting married in Jordan and, luckily (but unfortunately luck might not help him when dealing with nationalism), at least some of the girls, studying Korean, at the University of Jordan wanted to practice speaking with him.

He also asked me if it was easier to get married in Egypt. By that time, I’d only lived in Alexandria, which was not very different to Jordan (in terms of final outcome) so was unsure what to say to him.  Too bad I didn’t speak to him after Cairo (see below).

Continue reading “You get what you pay for (sometimes)”

Psychopath

He told me he was Chechen, which was unusual as most of them would hardly talk to me (or to anyone other than their own).  He was actually from Kazakhstan.  I never got the details, but I remembered having once learned that, during the time of Stalin’s reign, some Chechens had been deported from their native homeland.

I first met this Chechen from Kazakhstan in a private library in Jordan and noticed that his spoken Arabic was not great (despite him studying in the Faculty of Literature).  So I took it with a pinch of salt when he told me that he knew an awesome centre in Alexandria.  However, I started to like him due to the fact he tried to speak in Arabic and we shared a common nostalgia regarding Alexandria.

Guess we became friends after I went through a crisis at the language centre, UJLC.  He had suggested I talk to the president of the centre and so I did.  By that time, the Chechen had studied Arabic for three years (including one year at the Faculty of Literature) and his spoken skills were impressive.  I even had arguments with him about politics and religion in Arabic (with great difficulty).

Things became really complicated when he made a big issue of a friendship I had with a 65 year old woman in London.  According to him, this is forbidden in religion.  I was puzzled by his argument.  How could it be like this when he had become busy hanging out with a Russian lady at the language centre (who had been briefed before departure from her country that she could count on him)?  I challenged him on this point and the Chechen said that he could conceivably develop feelings for her and therefore it was wrong, (but strangely he would continue his friendship with her).  So I asked why that was an issue when he could simply marry her.  Why prefer to stay single when he could marry a girl he trusts?  However, his response was that he would never marry a Russian after how they destroyed his homeland.

In fact, on the basis of this debate we were having, his teenage flat-mate (also Chechen and actually from Chechnya) told me that they are good Muslims and I am a bad Muslim (while shouting at me in the street).  He then explained that at least they admit it is haraam.  However, the truth is (according to ibn Taymiyya* as I understand it) faith is not simply words, but it is also actions, which is why God says in the Quran ‘those who believe and do righteous deeds’ or ‘believe and establish the prayer’ (for example).

Explaining this to them made no difference, just as explaining to them that in religion they can not make something forbidden unless there is a textual evidence for it (with regard to matters other than those relating directly with God or in other words – the worldly life, i.e. transacting with the creation).

Eventually, I suggested we go to the Faculty of Religion in the University of Jordan to ask one of the experts about the issue.  He did not like this idea and said that Jordan is not the place for learning religion.

Continue reading “Psychopath”

Ali Baba

The Ali Baba International Center focuses on learning both German and standard Arabic.

Ali Baabaa is not very well known, which is probably why I was only able to study here for one month.  After that there were no more students of intermediate level.  Their busy period might of been  during the summer and the month of January.

For a private institute, I was quite impressed.  There was no bored director greedy for US dollars or playing games with the student’s level.

Perhaps more importantly, the teachers were very polite and clearly skilled professionals (or at least trying to appear as such).  In fact, the teaching style was similar to that of the TAFL Center in Alexandria, but without the abuse and discrimination.

Yes, initially, the name made me laugh too, but in the end the joke was on me. This really is a genuine place for the serious student of Arabic.

Although I only studied here for four weeks, I gained a lot more than I expected, much more than from the so-called university opposite.

Foreign Exchange

At the end of 2013, I planned to spend just a few months in the Middle East.  Somehow that eventually stretched to a couple of years.  Needless to say that I ran out of cash and had to withdraw from automated teller machines (ATM).

Here lies the problem.  Back in London I was told by HSBC that the charge is only for using an ATM of a different bank and that there was no charge for using the ATM of my own bank.  However, in reality, ATM transactions were costing me almost 30 pounds for every 300 pounds I withdrew.  How was this?

Firstly, HSBC changed its policy after I went abroad.  So it made no difference whether I used my own bank or an ATM of some other bank in Jordan.

As for Citibank, I was hoping to use one of their ATMs in Alexandria at no extra charge, but it closed its retail banking in Egypt.

Then there were other charges that they did not tell me about.  Here is the breakdown of the cost, which is available on most bank websites.  So the total cost is made up of the following fees: use of ATM, international transaction, exchange rate and for the actual conversion.

My only solution then was to open a local bank account and make a large single transfer.

The day I went out to make a final withdrawal, which was on the 2nd June 2016, my bank was closed for the Great Arab Revolt centennial.

Never mind.  Since it’s so much hassle to open a bank account, it’s probably better to leave one open for when I might return to Jordan.

To be honest, that might never happen.

Update:  Recently, I learned that if there is no activity on your bank account for more six months it can become ‘inactive’ and after a year it becomes ‘dormant’. Beyond that your account will not exist and you may lose the money.

الدراسة في مركز تافل

السيدة الدكتورة لنا حبيب مديرة مركز تافل في كلية الآداب في جامعة الإسكندرية.

 

السلام عليكم,

 

كيف حالك, أرجو أن يكون كل شيء على ما يُرام,  هل لا زلتِ تَذَكَّرِينني, أنا طالب من بريطانيا أخدتُ دورتين في اللغة العربية (الفصحة والعامية) في مركزكم من شباط 2014 – آيار 2014.  شكراً لكم تعلمتُ منكم أشياء جيدة و لديكم معلمون مؤهلون ولكنني أود أن أذْكر لك بعض الملاحظات الذي وجدتُهُ في مركزكم من أجل تحسين و تطوير مركزكم نحو الأفضل, راجياً منكم بِعَين الاعتبار:

 

وددتُ لو أن جميع الطلبة و العمّال في المركز يتكلمون اللغة العربية فقط, لأنني لاحظتُ بعض الطلاب يتكلمون اللغة الانكلزية معي و كنتُ أريد أن أستغلّ جميع وقتي في مركزكم لأتحدّث اللغة العربية, فأرجو منكم أن تُشَجعوا و تدْعوا لِلْتكلُّم باللغة العربية فقط لتحسين لغتنا.

 

الرّحْلات كانتْ ممتعةً, الأماكن جميلة ولكن المرشدين كانوا يتحدثون الانجليزية معنا للأسف,  فأرجو أن تكون جميع الأنشِطة باللغة العربية أيضاً لتحسين لغتنا.

 

لاحظتُ وجود بعض العنصرية في التافل معي من قِبَل احدى المدرسات في دورة العامية المصرية حيث أنها تُعامِلني بناء على أصولي وجنسيتي و لا تعاملني بمساواة مع الآخرين, و لم آتِ الى مركزكم لتعلُّم المزيد من العنصرية, هدفي هو تعلُّم اللغة العربية فقط, فأرجو منكم أخذ هذه النقطة بعين الاعتبار.

 

كنتُ أرْغَب باِخبارك قبل سفري بهذه الملاحظات ولكنني مَرِضْت و لم أستطعْ أن أراك, آسف على ازعاجك ولكنني أحْبَبتُ المكان و أود العودة اليه ولكن أرجو النظر في هذه الأمور.